2016-12-29?WSET 3?葡萄酒的門徒
WATER
What a vine needs
The vine needs water for photosynthesis, to give rigidity to its shoots and leaves, to regulate its temperature and to swell its grapes. It accesses water through its roots and, in a process known astranspiration, water is drawn up to the leaves. The amount of water a vine uses is determined by the temperature. As it gets warmer, the vine’s metabolism accelerates and therefore so do its water needs.
水
葡萄植株的需求
葡萄植株需要水分來進行光合作用，以強固新枝與葉片，調(diào)節(jié)植株的溫度以及增大葡萄果實。葡萄通過根系吸收水分，通過蒸騰作用 （?transpiration）將水分向上運輸?shù)饺~片。葡萄植株消耗的水分量由當(dāng)時的環(huán)境溫度所決定。當(dāng)溫度升高時，葡萄樹新陳代謝的速度會加快，這時候植株所需要的水分也更多。
Once a sufficient canopy of leaves has grown, mild water stress is therefore beneficial to grape ripening. In these conditions the vine has enough water to keep photosynthesising but the shortage of water is sufficient to switch a vine’s glucose resources from shoot growth to grape ripening. This has the added advantage of reducing the impact of shading.
葉片數(shù)量充足的植株樹冠一旦形成，輕微的缺水反而有利于葡萄果實的成熟。在這種情況下，葡萄植株已經(jīng)有足夠的水分來維持光合作用的進行，而輕微的缺水能將植株的葡萄糖資源從新枝的生長上轉(zhuǎn)移到果實成熟上來。這是減少遮陰影響的另外好處。
Precipitation
The timing as well as the amount of the rainfall is important. Flowering and fruit set can both be disrupted by heavy rainfall and this can significantly reduce the number of grapes that are formed. Damp conditions that follow rainfall also encourage fungal infection. Heavy rain shortly before harvest time can cause the berries to swell excessively. This dilutes the flavours in the wine they produced and in extreme cases berries can split, which attracts fungal disease.
降水量
降水量和降水時間都極為重要。暴雨可能會干擾葡萄植株開花和坐果，導(dǎo)致最終形成的果實數(shù)量急劇減少。降雨后的潮濕環(huán)境也增加了真菌感染的可能性。即將收獲前的大暴雨會使葡萄果實過度膨脹。這會導(dǎo)致酒的風(fēng)味被稀釋，極端情況下果實還會裂開，容易感染真菌病。
Irrigation
Rainfall is the most important source of water but if it is insufficient then it can be supplemented with irrigation if local laws permit. There are three main techniques.Drip irrigation?is the most advanced and expensive. Each vine has its own dripper that can be computer controlled to ensure that each vine gets the optimum amount of water.Sprinklers?are still widely used and cheaper than drip irrigation but they waste a lot of water and, like rain, they create damp conditions in the vineyard increasing the risk of disease. If correctly designed, sprinklers can also be used in frost protection.Flood irrigation?is very cheap to use?but is only possible in vineyards that are flat or very gently sloping and where there is access to large quantities of water, as in Chile and Argentina.
灌溉
降雨是最重要的水分來源，但是當(dāng)降水不充足時，如果當(dāng)?shù)氐姆稍试S，可以用灌溉來補充水分的供給。主要有三種灌溉技術(shù)：滴灌（Drip irrigation）是最為先進也是最昂貴的灌溉方式。每一棵葡萄植株都有自己的滴頭，這些滴頭由電腦控制，確保每一棵葡萄樹都能獲得最佳的供水量。噴灌（Sprinklers）仍然在廣泛應(yīng)用，并且比滴管要便宜，但是這種灌溉方式會浪費很多水，像降雨一樣，噴灌會造成葡萄園中潮濕的環(huán)境從而增加病害的可能性。如果設(shè)計合理，噴灌也可以用來預(yù)防霜凍。大水浸灌（Flood irrigation）是非常便宜的灌溉方式，但只能用在例如智利和阿根廷這些坡度非常平緩又可以獲得大量水資源的葡萄園。
Water Hazards
If there is a water shortage the vine can temporarily stop transpiration in order to preserve its resources. During prolonged shortages or drought, vines suffer from water stress. Photosynthesis can stop, leaves wilt and grapes fail to ripen. Ultimately this can weaken and kill a vine.
水災(zāi)害
如果葡萄植株處在缺水的狀況下，它就會暫時停止蒸發(fā)作用來儲存水資源。如果水分缺失的時間延長或發(fā)生干旱，葡萄就會因缺水而受損。這時，光合作用就會停止，葉片萎蔫，葡萄果實也無法成熟。長時間的缺水會最終會導(dǎo)致葡萄植株變?nèi)鹾退劳觥?/p>
If the vine has access to too much water during the growing season it will promote excessive vegetative growth. The continuing growth of the shoots and leaves diverts glucose from the ripening grapes, and the excess shoots and leaves increase the risk of shading and potentially impede grape ripening.
如果葡萄植株在生長季獲得了過多的水資源，就會導(dǎo)致葡萄植株，枝葉過度生長，新梢漁業(yè)片的持續(xù)生長會將，共鋪頭果實成熟的葡萄糖轉(zhuǎn)移到，枝葉生長上來，并且過多的新址雨夜片還會增加擋光的風(fēng)險性，繼而可能阻礙果實的成熟。
Excess rainfall towards the end of the growing season can create damp conditions that increase the likelihood of rot. It can also lead to berries expanding, diluting their flavours, and bursting, leading to fungal and bacterial infection.
葡萄生長季將近結(jié)束時，過量的降雨會造成環(huán)境潮濕，增加了葡萄腐爛的可能性。它還會使葡萄果實膨脹，稀釋了風(fēng)味甚至使得果實脹破，進而引起真菌或是細菌的感染。
Summer hail is another worry for the viticulturalist. It can damage grapes and even the vine itself. In the worst cases it can destroy an entire crop. Some areas, such as Mendoza in Argentina are particularly prone to hail. In certain vineyards netting is used to protect the vines. Elsewhere, aircraft and rockets are used to seed potential storm clouds with chemicals to ensure that the water falls as rain, rather than hail.
夏季冰雹是讓葡萄種植者擔(dān)憂的另一種災(zāi)害。它會破壞葡萄果實甚至是植株本身。在最糟糕的情況下，它會摧毀整片作物。有些地區(qū)，例如阿根廷的門多薩，就特別容易遭遇冰雹。一些葡萄園會使用結(jié)網(wǎng)的方式來保護葡萄植株。另一些地區(qū)，人們會用飛機和高空煙火向潛在的風(fēng)暴云撒化學(xué)物質(zhì)，確保其轉(zhuǎn)化為降雨，以免降下冰雹。
CLIMATE CLASSIFICATION
For the purposes?of consistency in this book a region’s temperature will be defined using the average temperature during the growing season, which is April to October in the northern hemisphere and October to April in the southern hemisphere. For simplicity, the following temperature terms will be used:
氣候分類
為了保持本書的一致性，每個地區(qū)的溫度以當(dāng)?shù)厣L季的平均溫度來定義，北半球的生長季是從4月到10月，南半球的生長季是10月到來年4月。為簡單起見，下面這些關(guān)于溫度的術(shù)語會經(jīng)常被用到：
Cool:?regions with an average growing season temperature of 16.5℃?or below.
Moderate:?regions with an average growing season temperature of 16.5℃?to 18.5℃.
Warm:?regions with an average growing season temperature of 18.5℃?to 21℃.?
Hot:?regions with an average growing season temperature in excess of 21℃. Hot areas are generally unsuitable for viticulture.
涼爽：生長季的平均溫度在16.5℃或更低。
溫和：生長季的平均溫度在16.5℃至18.5℃。
溫暖：生長季的平均溫度在18.5℃至21℃。
炎熱：生長季的平均溫度在21℃以上。炎熱地區(qū)通常情況下不適合種植葡萄。
????These give a good approximate guide to which grapes can be successfully ripened in any given region but climate classifications also need to incorporate how the temperature varies throughout the year (continentality) or during a typical day (diurnal range), and also the level and timing of rainfall and sunlight. For consistency throughout this book the following three climate categories will be used. They can take into account the temperature categories of cool, moderate and warm as well as a region’s continentality, sunlight and rainfall.
以上內(nèi)容就哪些品種的葡萄可以在一個地區(qū)順利成熟提供了大致指南，不過氣候分類還需要結(jié)合考慮全年溫度如何變化（大陸度）或一天中的溫度變化（晝夜溫差），降雨量和降雨時間，以及陽光強度的照射時間。為了整本書的一致性，下面三種氣候分類會經(jīng)常用到。這三類分類考慮到了涼爽、溫和、溫暖的溫度類別，以及一個地區(qū)的大陸度、陽光與降雨情況。
Continental Climate–?These climates have the greatest difference in temperature between the hottest and coldest months and are usually characterised by short summers with a large, rapid temperature drop in autumn. Cool continental climates such as Germany and Champagne are at risk from spring frost and low temperatures throughout the growing season can affect flowering, fruit set and ripening. They are therefore better suited to varieties that bud late and ripen early. In moderate continental climates such as the Niagara Peninsula, summers are sufficiently hot to ripen grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon in a relatively short growing season. Continental climates are also noted for having very dry summers and so if the temperature is high then irrigation can be necessary.
大陸性氣候?–?在這種氣候條件下，最炎熱與最寒冷的月份之間的溫度差異最為顯著，典型特征還包括夏季非常短暫，秋季降溫迅速且幅度大。例如德國和香檳區(qū)這些處于涼爽的大陸性氣候的地區(qū)，容易遭受春季霜凍，并且在整個生長季的溫度較低還會影響葡萄的開花、坐果以及成熟。因此，這樣的氣候條件適合種植哪些發(fā)芽較晚、成熟較早的葡萄品種。而像尼亞加拉半島這種處于溫和的大陸性氣候的地區(qū)，在相對較短的生長季內(nèi)夏季的溫度會高到足以使赤霞珠這樣的品種成熟。大陸性氣候還有一個顯著特征，就是夏季非常干燥，所以當(dāng)溫度高時灌溉就很有必要。
Maritime Climate–?Maritime climates are characterised by cool to moderate temperatures and a low annual difference between the hottest and coldest months. Rainfall tends to be evenly spread throughout the year, which helps in moderating the temperature and the light levels. This means, as in the case of Bordeaux, that the growing season can often continue far into autumn, ensuring there is enough warmth in the growing season to ripen Cabernet, which might otherwise struggle to ripen at this latitude. However, the spring and summer rain can be a very significant risk to the flowering, fruit set and the health of the grapes at harvest.
海洋性氣候?–?海洋性氣候特征是溫度涼爽或溫和，全年中最炎熱與最寒冷月份的溫度差異小。全年的降雨量分布均勻，這有利于調(diào)節(jié)溫度和日照強度。這意味著在像波爾多這樣的地區(qū)，生長季可以一直持續(xù)到秋天，為赤霞珠這類葡萄的成熟提供了足夠的熱量，而在相同緯度其它地區(qū)這類葡萄品種的成熟會很困難。然而，春季和夏季的降雨會給開花，坐果以及成熟期果實的健康狀況帶來極大的風(fēng)險。
Mediterranean Climate–?Mediterranean climates are also characterised by a low temperature difference between the hottest and coldest months but the summers tend to be warm and dry. These conditions are to be found throughout the Mediterranean as well as much of coastal California, Chile, South-Eastern Australia and the Cape Winelands. The extra warmth and sunlight compared with maritime climates leads to wines?that are fuller bodied, with riper?tannins, higher alcohol and lower acid. The lower rainfall can have a positive effect on the health of the grapes but can also lead to drought.
地中海氣候?–?地中海氣候的典型特征是最炎熱的月份與最寒冷的月份之間的溫度差異大，但夏季溫暖而干燥。這樣的氣候條件在整個地中海地區(qū)以及加利福尼亞大部份沿海地區(qū)、智利、澳大利亞東南部以及南非西開普省都可以找到。與海洋性氣候條件相比，地中海氣候額外的熱量和陽光條件會賦予葡萄酒更為飽滿的酒體，更成熟的單寧，更高的酒精度和更低的酸度。較少的降雨量對于葡萄的健康狀況是一個有利因素，但也可能會導(dǎo)致干旱。
SOIL
Soil Composition
Soil sits above the underlying bedrock, and may be anything from a few centimetres to several metres deep.?It is made up of tiny rock fragments of various sizes as well as larger stones or rocks, humus (organic matter) and plant nutrients.
土壤
土壤成分
土壤層位于下伏基巖之上，厚度在幾厘米到幾米之間。它是由不同規(guī)格的微小的巖石碎片，較大的石塊以及腐殖質(zhì)（有機物質(zhì)）和植物營養(yǎng)成分組成。
Soil Particles, Stones and Rocks–?These come from the underlying rock or later deposits laid on top of the rock and they give a soil its name; for example, limestone or slate. However, it is the size of the soil particles that is of most importance. Sand particles are the largest and they are relatively poor at holding water and plant nutrients. Clay particles are the smallest and have the best water and nutrient holding properties. The size of particle is not determined by the nature of the underlying rock, so it is possible to have a sandy or a clay limestone soil. The best soils are made up of a mixture of different particle sizes.
土壤顆粒、石塊、巖石?–?這些來自于下伏基巖或是后來巖石頂部的沉積物決定了土壤的名稱：例如，石灰?guī)r和板巖。不過，最重要的還是土壤顆粒的大小。沙質(zhì)顆粒是最大的，它們在保持水分和植物養(yǎng)分方面的能力相對較弱。黏土顆粒最小，有著最佳的水分和養(yǎng)分貯藏能力。顆粒的大小不是由下方的自然基巖的性質(zhì)所決定，所以既可能有沙質(zhì)的石灰石土壤，也可能有黏性的石灰石土壤。最好的土壤則是由不同大小土壤顆?；旌隙?。
Humus–?This is made up of decomposing plant and animal materials that are rich in plant nutrients and have excellent water retaining properties.
腐殖質(zhì)?–?由動物和植物殘骸分解而來，含有豐富的植物營養(yǎng)，并且有優(yōu)異的持水性。
Plant Nutrients?–?These are elements such as nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium that are dissolved in the water in the soil. Some are the result of decaying plant materials or manure; others are dissolved mineral salts. Every part of the vine is made from the products of photosynthesis and plant nutrients.
植物養(yǎng)分?–?包括溶解在土壤水溶液中的氮、磷、鉀等成分。有些是由植物或非糞肥腐爛而來；還有一些是溶解后的礦物鹽。葡萄植株的每一個部分都是由光和作用的產(chǎn)物和植物養(yǎng)分構(gòu)造而成。
The ideal soil for viticulture has relatively few nutrients and is well drained but able to store enough water to support the vine during the growing season.
葡萄栽培最理想的土壤應(yīng)該含有相對較少的營養(yǎng)成分，有良好的排水功能，同時又能夠給葡萄在生長季貯藏充足的水資源。
Soil and Water
Grape quality is affected by a soil’s ability to control water supply. Ideally a vineyard’s soil needs to provide a good supply of water early in the season in order to support strong growth, then reduce the supply after véraison inducing mild water stress in the vine, which encourages grape ripening. Water is stored in the soil by binding to clay particles or to humus. Water may also be accessible in the underlying rock. Sand particles and a high stone content ensure good soil drainage. If there is too much clay the soil can easily become waterlogged, which can kill the vine’s roots. If there is too much sand the soil will not be able to retain enough water and irrigation may be needed even in areas of high rainfall.
土壤和水分
土壤控制水分供給的能力影響到葡萄的品質(zhì)。理想條件下，一個葡萄園的土壤需要在生長季的早期提供充足的水分，使葡萄能夠保持旺盛的生長，在轉(zhuǎn)色期后減少水分的供給而使植株處在輕微缺水的狀態(tài)，這樣就會促進葡萄果實的成熟。水分是通過吸附在粘土顆粒或是腐殖質(zhì)上而貯藏在土壤中的。在下伏基巖中的水資源也有可能被利用到，沙質(zhì)顆粒和石塊含量多都能保證土壤有良好的排水性能。如果黏土的含量過高，土壤容易出現(xiàn)水澇，這會導(dǎo)致葡萄植株根系死亡。如果沙土的含量過高，土壤就不能貯藏足夠多的水分，因此即使在降雨量豐富的地區(qū)也有可能需要進行灌溉。
????There is no one ideal soil that meets these requirements. For example, the best sites in the Médoc have a gravelly sandy soil. Compared with other soils of a higher clay content, these soils can hold relatively little water per cubic metre but this is compensated by the depth of the soil, which means that the roots have access to enough water during the growing season.
符合所有這些要求的完美無缺的土壤并不存在。例如，梅多克(Médoc)?最出色的葡萄園有著多礫石的沙質(zhì)土壤。與其它粘土含量更高的土壤相比，這些土壤每立方米可以貯藏的水分含量相對較少，但這可以由土壤的厚度來彌補，這也就是說在生長季內(nèi)的葡萄的根系仍然可以獲得充足的水資源。
Soil and Nutrients
The most important nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Vines do not need high levels of these nutrients in order to be able to thrive. If levels are too high, especially of nitrogen, the vine will grow too vigorously and produce a dense leafy canopy that shades the fruit too much. Over time the nutrients in the soil become depleted and the viticulturalist will need to replace them with natural or chemical fertilisers.
土壤和養(yǎng)分
最重要的營養(yǎng)成分是氮、磷和鉀。葡萄并不需要高含量的營養(yǎng)成分，才能茁壯成長。如果含量過高，特別是氮含量過高，葡萄植株會長得過于茂盛，導(dǎo)致樹冠葉片密集，過多遮擋了果實接收的陽光。隨著時間的推移，土壤中的養(yǎng)分會耗盡，葡萄種植者就需要用天然或化學(xué)肥料進行補充。
The most common symptom linked to nutritional deficiency is chlorosis. The leaves turn yellow because they lose chlorophyll. The result is reduced photosynthesis, and the quality of the grapes and yield is affected. The most common cause of chlorosis is the inability of the vine to gain sufficient iron from the soil. This is commonly associated with soils with high limestone content such as those found in Champagne, Burgundy, Rioja and Barolo. The best solution to this problem is to use a rootstock that can tolerate lime soils.
養(yǎng)分缺失最常見的癥狀就是?chlorosis?黃化病。葉片因為缺少葉綠素而變黃，導(dǎo)致光合作用率下降，葡萄果實的品質(zhì)和產(chǎn)量都會受到影響。黃化病最常見的原因就是葡萄植株無法從土壤中獲得充足的鐵元素。這種現(xiàn)象通常出現(xiàn)在那些土壤中石灰石含量高的地區(qū)，例如香檳區(qū)、勃艮第、Rioja?里奧哈以及?Barolo?巴羅洛。解決這個問題的最佳方式就是使用耐石灰石土壤的砧木品種。
The overall impact of vine nutrition on grapes and wine is poorly understood. For example, a Burgundian producer can make wines with different characteristics from different vineyards despite using identical grape varieties as well as viticultural and winemaking techniques throughout. But how far the difference can be attributed to nutrients rather than subtle variations in other factors such as climate, aspect and water supply cannot yet be determined for sure.
人們對葡萄植株中的營養(yǎng)成分含量對果實和葡萄酒的總體影響還是知之甚少。比如，一個勃艮第的葡萄酒種植者在不同的葡萄園種植完全相同的葡萄品種，使用完全相同的栽培方式和釀酒技術(shù)，釀出的酒仍然有著不同的風(fēng)格特征。但是這些風(fēng)格的差異到底有多少是由不同的養(yǎng)分含量造成，或是有其它因素例如氣候、朝向或是水分供給造成，人們?nèi)匀粺o法確定。
TERROIR
This word refers to the ensemble of environmental influences that give a wine a sense of place. In its most narrow usage, it refers only to the effects of different soil structures within an area of unvarying climate. More usefully, it can be taken to cover the combined effects of aspect, slope, climate, weather and grape variety. These effects are usually subtle, but are sometimes dramatic, and with careful winemaking, they can be transposed into recognisable flavours and other components (such as tannins or acids) in a wine.
風(fēng)土條件
這個詞指的是賦予葡萄酒獨特地方特征的總體自然環(huán)境。最狹義的定義僅僅指在天氣條件不變的情況下，一個地區(qū)內(nèi)不同的土壤結(jié)構(gòu)造成的影響。更有實用意義的用法是，它還包含了葡萄園的朝向、坡度、氣候、天氣以及葡萄的品種這些因素所產(chǎn)生的綜合影響。這些因素的影響通常都很細微，但有時候也會非常劇烈，經(jīng)過細致的釀造過程，這些因素造成的影響都可以轉(zhuǎn)化到酒中，以風(fēng)味和其它要素（如單寧和酸度）的形式被人們感知。
????Many wine characteristic that would once have been a clue as to the region of origin are strictly speaking aspects of viticulture of winemaking. These include choice of grape variety, use of oak, malolactic fermentation and lees stirring. The limits of how the wine style of one region can be copied in another, using an array of viticultural and winemaking techniques that includes canopy management, irrigation and must adjustments, are still being explored. It would be unreasonable to require all wines to express their geographical origins, if by doing so some were of poor quality or unpleasant. However, there is a danger that as techniques and expertise are shared throughout the world, international styles emerge and diversity is lost. Countering this trend, many wine producers are realising that the sense of place is a unique aspect of their wine that can be used to market it, and help it achieve higher prices. Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay can be made almost everywhere. Coonawarra Cabernet and Chablis cannot.
葡萄酒的特點中有許多是以前能夠判斷該款酒原產(chǎn)地的線索，但是這些特點嚴(yán)格意義上來說是栽培或釀造不同方面的體現(xiàn)。這包括葡萄品種的選擇，橡木桶的使用，蘋果酸乳酸發(fā)酵以及酒泥的攪動。通過使用很多不同的葡萄栽培與葡萄酒釀造技術(shù)（包括樹冠管理、灌溉、葡萄醪調(diào)節(jié)等），一個地區(qū)葡萄酒的風(fēng)格究竟多大程度上能復(fù)制到另一個地區(qū)，這個問題仍然還在在探索中。讓所有的葡萄酒都表現(xiàn)出當(dāng)?shù)氐牡乩憝h(huán)境特征是不切實際的，因為如果這樣做，很多酒都會品質(zhì)低下或是不受歡迎。然而，當(dāng)技術(shù)條件和專業(yè)知識在全球共享后，有可能出現(xiàn)國際風(fēng)格流行而使多樣性喪失的風(fēng)險。與這種趨勢相反的是，許多葡萄酒釀造者意識到葡萄酒不同的地區(qū)特點是他們的獨特優(yōu)勢，有利于市場營銷和定更高的價格。赤霞珠和霞多麗幾乎可以在世界上任何一個地方釀造，但庫納瓦拉的赤霞珠和夏布利的霞多麗卻是獨一無二的。
